2. NABMA

Muztagh Ata 2014

Muztagh Ata (7.546 m or 24,757 ft) is highest skiable mountain in the world.
In July 2014. I attempted to reach the summit.
My plan was to summit Muztagh Ata on skis without porters, cooks, or a guide.
Muztagh Ata is quite impressive.
Standing all alone and not being part of a chain of peaks and being much farther north than the Himalayas give it the reputation of being a cold mountain.
The problems lie in coping with the high altitude, the cold and the weather.
Mt Muztagh Ata has an exceptional neighborhood : the Karakoram range, at the south, Tajikistan and the Pamir range, at the west, Takla Makan desert ("if you go in you don't come out" in the Uyghur language) at the east and at the north Tien Shan mountains and the fabled city of Kashgar.
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  • There are many different ways to approach this area. I choose this approach: Fly to Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. Two days are needed to reach Kashgar. Spend one night in Naryn and the next day continue to the border at Torugart Pass (elevation 3.752m). The Muztagh Ata lies on the "Karakoram Highway", a road that offers a precarious connection between Pakistan and western China. The nearest location of any importance is Kashgar (this is the name in the local Uyghur language, the Chinese say Kashi), an oasis town between the high mountain range of the Pamirs and the Takla Makan desert.

    There are many different ways to approach this area. I choose this approach: Fly to Bishkek, the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. Two days are needed to reach Kashgar. Spend one night in Naryn and the next day continue to the border at Torugart Pass (elevation 3.752m). The Muztagh Ata lies on the "Karakoram Highway", a road that offers a precarious connection between Pakistan and western China. The nearest location of any importance is Kashgar (this is the name in the local Uyghur language, the Chinese say Kashi), an oasis town between the high mountain range of the Pamirs and the Takla Makan desert.

  • In Bishkek my baggage was delayed and I arranged everything on my own to catch my team members at Muztagh Ata BC.

    In Bishkek my baggage was delayed and I arranged everything on my own to catch my team members at Muztagh Ata BC.

  • Bishkek (800m). As trip organizer I selected Asia Mountains. Beautiful Asia Mountain’s hotel “Gory Asii”. There were 16 members of our Muztagh Ata 2014 Team.

    Bishkek (800m). As trip organizer I selected Asia Mountains. Beautiful Asia Mountain’s hotel “Gory Asii”. There were 16 members of our Muztagh Ata 2014 Team.

  • Ceremony regarding recognition of 100 years anniversary of World War I. We got capsule for the top of the Muztagh Ata with message from kids from around the world: NO MORE WORLD WARS FOREVER!!!

    Ceremony regarding recognition of 100 years anniversary of World War I. We got capsule for the top of the Muztagh Ata with message from kids from around the world: NO MORE WORLD WARS FOREVER!!!

  • "Kyrgyz" is believed to have been derived from the Turkic word for "forty", in reference to the forty clans of Manas, a legendary hero who united forty regional clans against the Uyghurs. Literally it means We are forty. At the time, in the early 9th century AD, the Uyghurs dominated much of Central Asia (including Kyrgyzstan), Mongolia, and parts of Russia and China.

    "Kyrgyz" is believed to have been derived from the Turkic word for "forty", in reference to the forty clans of Manas, a legendary hero who united forty regional clans against the Uyghurs. Literally it means We are forty. At the time, in the early 9th century AD, the Uyghurs dominated much of Central Asia (including Kyrgyzstan), Mongolia, and parts of Russia and China.

  • Kyrgyzstan's population is estimated at 5.6 million in 2013. The nation's largest ethnic group are the Kyrgyz, a Turkic people, who comprise 72% of the population (2013 estimate). Other ethnic groups include Russians (9.0%) concentrated in the north and Uzbeks (14.5%) living in the south. Islam is the dominant religion of Kyrgyzstan: 80% of the population is Muslim while 17% follow Russian Orthodoxy and 3% other religions.

    Kyrgyzstan's population is estimated at 5.6 million in 2013. The nation's largest ethnic group are the Kyrgyz, a Turkic people, who comprise 72% of the population (2013 estimate). Other ethnic groups include Russians (9.0%) concentrated in the north and Uzbeks (14.5%) living in the south. Islam is the dominant religion of Kyrgyzstan: 80% of the population is Muslim while 17% follow Russian Orthodoxy and 3% other religions.

  • Typical scenery approaching Kashgar. Kashgar features a desert climate with hot summers and cold winters, with large temperature differences between those two seasons: The monthly 24-hour average temperature ranges from −5.3 °C (22.5 °F) in January to 25.6 °C (78.1 °F) in July, while the annual mean is 11.84 °C (53.3 °F). Spring is long and arrives quickly, while fall is somewhat brief in comparison. Kashgar is one of the driest cities on the planet, averaging only 64 millimetres (2.52 in) of precipitation per year. The city’s wettest month, July, only sees on average 9.1 millimetres (0.36 in) of rain. Because of the extremely arid conditions, snowfall is rare, despite the cold winters. Records have been as low as −24.4 °C (−12 °F) in January and up to 40.1 °C (104.2 °F) in July. The frost-free period averages 215 days. With monthly percent possible sunshine ranging from 50% in March to 70% in September, sunshine is abundant and the city receives 2,726 hours of bright sunshine annually.

    Typical scenery approaching Kashgar. Kashgar features a desert climate with hot summers and cold winters, with large temperature differences between those two seasons: The monthly 24-hour average temperature ranges from −5.3 °C (22.5 °F) in January to 25.6 °C (78.1 °F) in July, while the annual mean is 11.84 °C (53.3 °F). Spring is long and arrives quickly, while fall is somewhat brief in comparison. Kashgar is one of the driest cities on the planet, averaging only 64 millimetres (2.52 in) of precipitation per year. The city’s wettest month, July, only sees on average 9.1 millimetres (0.36 in) of rain. Because of the extremely arid conditions, snowfall is rare, despite the cold winters. Records have been as low as −24.4 °C (−12 °F) in January and up to 40.1 °C (104.2 °F) in July. The frost-free period averages 215 days. With monthly percent possible sunshine ranging from 50% in March to 70% in September, sunshine is abundant and the city receives 2,726 hours of bright sunshine annually.

  • Kashgar once used to be a part of the Silk Road, the route of the traders that connected the orient with the occident from the middle ages on. The Venetian explorer Marco Polo passed by Kashgar on his fabled journey to China. It is part of the Xinjian province, which was an independent state for a long time, but was annected by China very much in the same way as Tibet. We spent a night in 'Super 8' hotel - down on the street.

    Kashgar once used to be a part of the Silk Road, the route of the traders that connected the orient with the occident from the middle ages on. The Venetian explorer Marco Polo passed by Kashgar on his fabled journey to China. It is part of the Xinjian province, which was an independent state for a long time, but was annected by China very much in the same way as Tibet. We spent a night in 'Super 8' hotel - down on the street.

  • From Kashgar it takes you a day’s ride to the Karakul lake at 3.645 meters or 11,959 feet elevation, where you get your first sight of Muztagh Ata. The meaning of Muztagh Ata is "Father of all Icepeaks". It is easy to understand why it got such name, as it really dominates all surroundings. It's not only a high peak; it's also large in terms of the circumference of the base. Its glaciated summit looms about 4 kilometres over the beautiful Subashi Valley and the deep blue Karakol Lake completes the picture.

    From Kashgar it takes you a day’s ride to the Karakul lake at 3.645 meters or 11,959 feet elevation, where you get your first sight of Muztagh Ata. The meaning of Muztagh Ata is "Father of all Icepeaks". It is easy to understand why it got such name, as it really dominates all surroundings. It's not only a high peak; it's also large in terms of the circumference of the base. Its glaciated summit looms about 4 kilometres over the beautiful Subashi Valley and the deep blue Karakol Lake completes the picture.

  • Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. There was a debate about a range the peak belongs to, but nowadays most consider it to be the western end of mighty Kunlun Range. Some are still placing Muztagh Ata to Pamir, but those are in small minority.

    Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. There was a debate about a range the peak belongs to, but nowadays most consider it to be the western end of mighty Kunlun Range. Some are still placing Muztagh Ata to Pamir, but those are in small minority.

  • Muztagh Ata is one of the most popular 7000m peaks. There are many reasons for its popularity: - The access is very easy. In a few hours you can reach the BC from the asphalted Karakoram Highway. - The mountain is located in an interesting part of the world, close to the old Silk Road and the beauty of nature is stunning. - The main reason is probably Muztagh Ata's reputation being the easiest 7000m peak. The normal route is easy, technically speaking and there are few objective dangers. The high altitude, the deep snow on the enormous wind swept slopes and the biting winds over 7000 meters still make it a hard target. The bottom line is; there's no easy peak of that altitude.

    Muztagh Ata is one of the most popular 7000m peaks. There are many reasons for its popularity: - The access is very easy. In a few hours you can reach the BC from the asphalted Karakoram Highway. - The mountain is located in an interesting part of the world, close to the old Silk Road and the beauty of nature is stunning. - The main reason is probably Muztagh Ata's reputation being the easiest 7000m peak. The normal route is easy, technically speaking and there are few objective dangers. The high altitude, the deep snow on the enormous wind swept slopes and the biting winds over 7000 meters still make it a hard target. The bottom line is; there's no easy peak of that altitude.

  • The Kyrgyz have historically been semi-nomadic herders, living in round tents called yurts and tending sheep, horses and yaks.

    The Kyrgyz have historically been semi-nomadic herders, living in round tents called yurts and tending sheep, horses and yaks.

  • This nomadic tradition continues to function seasonally as herding families return to the high mountain pasture in the summer.

    This nomadic tradition continues to function seasonally as herding families return to the high mountain pasture in the summer.

  • Muztagh Ata is located in the far west remote region of China’s Xinjiang province where ICE MEETS DESERT!

    Muztagh Ata is located in the far west remote region of China’s Xinjiang province where ICE MEETS DESERT!

  • The domesticated Bactrian camel has served as a pack animal in inner Asia since ancient times. With its tolerance for cold, drought, and high altitudes, it enabled travel such as the caravans of the Silk Road. Now-days even for mountain expedition transportation.

    The domesticated Bactrian camel has served as a pack animal in inner Asia since ancient times. With its tolerance for cold, drought, and high altitudes, it enabled travel such as the caravans of the Silk Road. Now-days even for mountain expedition transportation.

  • We used them for transport of our equipment from Subashi 3.850m to Base Camp (BC) at 4.420m.

    We used them for transport of our equipment from Subashi 3.850m to Base Camp (BC) at 4.420m.

  • It is interesting to see typical desert animals such as camels in almost snowy surrounding.

    It is interesting to see typical desert animals such as camels in almost snowy surrounding.

  • More than 20 glaciers coming down from Muztagh Ata. Some of them, like Qortomak glacier, are reaching way below BC at 4.420m.

    More than 20 glaciers coming down from Muztagh Ata. Some of them, like Qortomak glacier, are reaching way below BC at 4.420m.

  • The Bactrian camel is a large, even-toed ungulate native to the steppes of Central Asia. Of the two species of camel, it is by far the rarer. The Bactrian camel has two humps on its back, in contrast to the single-humped dromedary camel. Their name comes from the ancient historical region of Bactria.

    The Bactrian camel is a large, even-toed ungulate native to the steppes of Central Asia. Of the two species of camel, it is by far the rarer. The Bactrian camel has two humps on its back, in contrast to the single-humped dromedary camel. Their name comes from the ancient historical region of Bactria.

  • Base Camp (BC) at about 4.420m or 14,500ft elevation. Asia mountains engaged Kashgar Mountaineering Association (KMA) to organize expedition from chinese border to Muztagh Ata Base camp and back. KMA BC - behind is Chinese BC.

    Base Camp (BC) at about 4.420m or 14,500ft elevation. Asia mountains engaged Kashgar Mountaineering Association (KMA) to organize expedition from chinese border to Muztagh Ata Base camp and back. KMA BC - behind is Chinese BC.

  • July 4th - The first acclimatization tour - above BC for about 400 meters. Base Camp is below us.

    July 4th - The first acclimatization tour - above BC for about 400 meters. Base Camp is below us.

  • Camp 1 was at about 5.370m or 17,620ft. Snow line is approximately at this level, but last night was snowy.

    Camp 1 was at about 5.370m or 17,620ft. Snow line is approximately at this level, but last night was snowy.

  • Kid in BC made interesting toy.

    Kid in BC made interesting toy.

  • At BC we were using different sources of energy.

    At BC we were using different sources of energy.

  • The view up from C1 tent.

    The view up from C1 tent.

  • End of icefall.

    End of icefall.

  • Negotiate the trail through icefall.

    Negotiate the trail through icefall.

  • There is an icefall in between 5500 and 6100m.

    There is an icefall in between 5500 and 6100m.

  • There are some crevasses, too

    There are some crevasses, too

  • Close to C2 - the view below.

    Close to C2 - the view below.

  • On skis, it was much easier and faster to go down. The smooth slopes just above the ice fall lead to the steep slopes of the ice walls encompassed in the debris of the glacier falling towards camp 1. I carefully chose lines through the labirint of crevasses until was again on smooth slopes leading to the route below.

    On skis, it was much easier and faster to go down. The smooth slopes just above the ice fall lead to the steep slopes of the ice walls encompassed in the debris of the glacier falling towards camp 1. I carefully chose lines through the labirint of crevasses until was again on smooth slopes leading to the route below.

  • July 12th Weather forecast for the summit was bad for a few days and with Slovak Peter I decided to visit Tashkurgan farther south on Karakoram Highway. Not much animals around. I have seen only a lot of screeching marmots.

    July 12th Weather forecast for the summit was bad for a few days and with Slovak Peter I decided to visit Tashkurgan farther south on Karakoram Highway. Not much animals around. I have seen only a lot of screeching marmots.

  • The Karakoram Highway from Kashgar goes southwest about 80 km and then turns west to enter the Gez (Ghez) River canyon between Chakragil mountain on the north and Kongur mountain on the south. From the Gez canyon the population becomes Kirgiz. Having climbed up to the valley, the road turns south past Kongur, Karakul Lake and Muztagh Ata on the east. The road continues over a low pass (where the population becomes Tajik) and descends to Tashkurgan. Further south the road turns west the Khunjerab Pass, beyond which are Pakistan, the Khunjerab River and Hunza.

    The Karakoram Highway from Kashgar goes southwest about 80 km and then turns west to enter the Gez (Ghez) River canyon between Chakragil mountain on the north and Kongur mountain on the south. From the Gez canyon the population becomes Kirgiz. Having climbed up to the valley, the road turns south past Kongur, Karakul Lake and Muztagh Ata on the east. The road continues over a low pass (where the population becomes Tajik) and descends to Tashkurgan. Further south the road turns west the Khunjerab Pass, beyond which are Pakistan, the Khunjerab River and Hunza.

  • Yaks are sturdy and well adapted to coping with the extreme climatic conditions. The numbers of yaks in Kyrgyzstan reached a peak of about 67.000 in the late 1970’s, but have fallen to just 16.500 in 2001. Today yak meat is highly sought after as a delicacy.

    Yaks are sturdy and well adapted to coping with the extreme climatic conditions. The numbers of yaks in Kyrgyzstan reached a peak of about 67.000 in the late 1970’s, but have fallen to just 16.500 in 2001. Today yak meat is highly sought after as a delicacy.

  • Qortomak village - Our driver invited us to his yurt. The incredible hospitality of the local people (Kyrgyz), despite their poverty.

    Qortomak village - Our driver invited us to his yurt. The incredible hospitality of the local people (Kyrgyz), despite their poverty.

  • Typical scenery at the foothills of Muztagh Ata.

    Typical scenery at the foothills of Muztagh Ata.

  • Camels are typical pack animals...

    Camels are typical pack animals...

  • ...and Kyrgyz's yurts are everywhere around.

    ...and Kyrgyz's yurts are everywhere around.

  • Different angle. Muztagh Ata (7.546m) viewed from Karakorum Highway - from the west...

    Different angle. Muztagh Ata (7.546m) viewed from Karakorum Highway - from the west...

  • ...and from southwest.

    ...and from southwest.

  • On the way to Tashkurgan...

    On the way to Tashkurgan...

  • The main street in Tashkurgan.

    The main street in Tashkurgan.

  • This area is famous for dried fruits and nuts...

    This area is famous for dried fruits and nuts...

  • ...and handicrafts.

    ...and handicrafts.

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    Camp 1 was at about 5.370m or 17,620ft. Snow line is approximately at this level, but last night was snowy.
    Kid in BC made interesting toy.
    At BC we were using different sources of energy.