2. NABMA

Khan Tengri 1991

Tien Shan, over 1500 miles long, is a beautiful and wild mountain range on the border of the Kyrgyzstan (the former Soviet Republic) and China. This area is home to the two northern most 7000m peaks in the world. Khan Tengri (7013m) and Peak Pobeda (7439m). In summer 1991, Khan Tengri was the target of the Bosnia & Herzegovina Climbing Expedition. The team consisted of six climbers.
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Khan Tengri (7013m), blood-red mountain - North face.
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Khan Tengri (7013m), blood-red mountain - North face.

khantengrinorthface

  • In the safety of the Camp 2. In the far background Peak Pobeda (7439m).
  • Camp 2, the next morning we needed to shake our tents to clean them from the new snow
  • Camp 2, Hamo is greeting the sun and mountains. Far, behind him, climbers slow going up towards Camp3.
  • Naim & Hamo enjoying morning in the tent, Camp 2
  • Food is very important part of the climbing process, and taste better if you share with friends. Hamo, Naim & Gafa enjoying high elevation meal at Camp 2
  • Hamo and Naim resting half way to Camp 3. The sun reflection is very strong at elevation and we used "face protectors".
  • Between Camp2 and Camp3 is a long way over the steep snow field. On the right is Khan Tengri summit pyramid. Our team will climb the West Ridge, in the center of the image
  • Naim and Hamo on the way to Camp 3. To the left part of the Peak Chapaev.
  • We are now close to Camp 3. Gafa is coming behind me. Naim is on the right, enjoying the great view to Peak Pobeda.
  • The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (The Lord of the Spirits) (7013m), highest peak in Tengri Tag range. The West Ridge is in the center of the image. The approaching route over the snow cornice is visible. Our team used Camp 4, around 6400m on the West Ridge. As Khan Tengri is northern most 7000m peak in the world it can be dangerous as the weather changes unpredictable. The climbing season is very short, mid July to the end of August. Ukrainian alpinist M. Pogrebetskiy and his team climbed the peak first in 1931 via what is today classical south-west route.<br /> Our team reached the summit of Khan Tengri as planed (August 1991). Following members reached the summit: Gafic Muhamed - Gafa, Edin Durmo, Naim Logic and Dragan Zlatanovic - Zlaja. Muhamed Shishic - Hamo reached 6,900m and Mirza Todorovich reached 6,000m during acclimatization. The expedition was fun and great experience in climbing, personal and cultural way. Many of us are still in contact with each other.
  • Sea of clouds covering the glacier.
  • The clear morning view on Peak Pobeda (7439m) on the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. On the left side from the main peak is East Summit (6762m), on the right side is West Summit (6918m). There are multiple routes from BC Peak Pobeda located on the Zvezdochka glacier to the main summit. Peak Pobeda, by far the most difficult peak in region, is first climbed by Russian climber V. Abalakov and his team in 1956.
  • Peak Pobeda still glowing late at night as moon rise over the Kokshal Tau range.
  • Peak Pobeda (7439m) - view through icicles. Has one of the highhest death tolls of any mountain.
  • Khan Tengri (7013m), blood-red mountain - North face.
  • The Central Tian Shan is a harsher environment than the Pamir, colder and more precipitous. The effects of altitude are felt more acutely because of the northern latitude. Can be compared to 8000m in the Himalaya.
  • Peak Pobeda's (7439m) massive bulk abouts the Zvyozdochka Glacier with 1.75 miles (3 km) vertical headwall.
  • Peak Chapayeva (6371m) from the south.
  • Khan Tengri (7013m) elbowed by Chapayeva, Gorkovo, and Petrovskovo - sheer walls of rock dropping thousands of feet to the glacier.
  • Khan Tengri (7013m) is as delicate in shape as Pobeda (7439m) is bulky.<br /> This elegant pyramid, with its fluted ridges, has the aesthetic appeal of perfect lines. The mountain's upper third is marble that glows red in the dark, making the mountain seem illuminated from its very core.
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