2. NABMA

Khan Tengri 1991

Tien Shan, over 1500 miles long, is a beautiful and wild mountain range on the border of the Kyrgyzstan (the former Soviet Republic) and China. This area is home to the two northern most 7000m peaks in the world. Khan Tengri (7013m) and Peak Pobeda (7439m). In summer 1991, Khan Tengri was the target of the Bosnia & Herzegovina Climbing Expedition. The team consisted of six climbers.
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Area map with camps' locations and our route to Khan Tengri (in red). Star is showing our Base Camp location.
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Area map with camps' locations and our route to Khan Tengri (in red). Star is showing our Base Camp location.

  • Khan Tengri (el. 22998 ft / 7013 m) was the target of the 1991 expedition in Organization Of Mountaineering Association of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Kiev Climbing Club (Ukraine).<br /> Attractive North Face of the Khan Tengri, more then 2500m tall is left in the image. Right of the center is Peak Chapaev (el. 6371m).
  • Team members from left to right: Muhamed Shishic - Hamo (Sarajevo), Dragan Zlatanovic - Zlaja (Belgrade), Edin Durmo (Zenica), Naim Logic (Sarajevo), two members of the Kiev group and far right Muhamed Gafic - Gafa (Sarajevo) leader of the expedition. Missing from the image is Mirza Todorovich (Tuzla), he is behind the camera. Image taken on the Kiev airport.
  • Naim Logic and Muhamed Gafic helping others unloading our gear from the airplane on the Karakol (former Przhevalsk) Airport (el. 1700m). We stayed in Karakol two days, waiting for helicopter. From there we flew to Maida Adyr camp (el. 3100m), then next day we flew with same helicopter to the South Inylchek Glacier base camp (el. around 4000m).
  • Camping next to airport's runaway. Durmo, Hamo, Zlaja and Naim. Karakol.
  • Guys having a chat about climbing as we wait for the helicopter to bring us to Maida Adyr camp.<br /> From left: Muhamed Shishic, Muhamed Gafic, Naim Logic, Edin Durmo and climber from Kiev Team.
  • Helicopter flight from Karakol to Maida Adyr Camp give us a chance to see lower Tian Shan massif. Whole area is amazing, with many unclimbed peaks and beautiful valleys.
  • Portable, hard hyperbaric chamber at Maid Adyr heliport.
  • Maida Adyr camp (el. 3100m).
  • We used our free time to go to Unnamed Peak (el. around 3900m) for acclimatisation, just above Maida Adyr camp. Low flying MI8 helicopter, returning from the Base Camp. View on the Kyrgiz/Russian Military facility, border with China is just few miles to the south, behind my back. In the background Inylchek River. Edin Durmo in the picture.
  • Next day we left Maida Adyr after the breakfast. Tian Shan is really attractive massif. Helicopter is so loud we can't hear each other, so no speaking only looking through the open window. Wherever I look I find something interesting.
  • Helicopter landed first on the glacier. Muhamed Shishic taking pictures from outside.
  • Our Base Camp at South Inylchek glacier is lokated on the north side moraine. View to the West, towards Maid Adyr camp. Glacier is covered with a lot of rocks and soil debris.
  • Hamo is tying cords on the main group tent. He is using custom sun protection for his nose. :)
  • Area map with camps' locations and our route to Khan Tengri (in red). Star is showing our Base Camp location.
  • Taking a rest on the upper part of South Inylchek glacier. We are going to Camp 1 (4100m) at the base of the Semenovsky glacier, it flows between Peak Chapaev and Khan Tengry. Heavy clouds will bring some snow. On the way over the glacier we needed to jump over some crevasses. It was not easy with heavy backpacks.
  • The small patch of stable ground provides place for Camp 1 (4100). We are coming at late evening and some tents are already there. The sound of glacier at this place is pretty loud. You hear running water, cracking the ice and falling the rocks all the time.
  • Camp 1 (4100m), after the breakfast, Hamo, Gafa and Naim are getting ready. In the background steep slopes of Peak Khan Tengri (7013m).
  • The drawing is showing our climbing route with high camps, South-West side.
  • Gafa, Hamo and Naim passing huge crevasse. Above is laying (or hanging) Semenovsky glacier with path to the Camp 2. In this area have to be especially careful as is under constant avalanche danger from Peak Chapaev (6371m), left in the image. On the way to Camp 2 (el. around 5000m) we need to pass few bergshrunds and some ice seracs.
  • Camp2 is on the huge serac, elevation around 5000m. We are watching two climbers negotiating long bergshrund on the steep slopes of Peak Chapaev.
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