2. NABMA

Denali 2011

Denali (aka Mt McKinley) is the highest point of North America at 6.194 meters or 20,320 ft.
This was the first ascent by a Bosnian on Skies. We sumitted on 7777: July 7th, 2011 at 7:07pm.
Denali is located inside the North polar circle (60 degrees) with latitude of 63 dg north, meaning: has extreme climate conditions.
This ascent is very physically demanding.
But everything was done in just "one day" - 3 weeks long...
Since I left Phoenix, AZ on June 21st, i haven't seen night until came back on July 12th.
It was all one long...looong day!
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  • June 22nd - Anchorage, AK - Earth B&B - Checking our equipment... From left: John W, Durny (sitting), and Tim.

    June 22nd - Anchorage, AK - Earth B&B - Checking our equipment... From left: John W, Durny (sitting), and Tim.

  • June 23rd - Ready for departure- Anchorage, AK - In front of "Earth Bed & Breakfast" where we gathered and spent first night. From right: John DM (Rochester, NY), John W. and Tim O. (both from London, England). Four of us - mountain skiers and we are waiting our two guides: Durny D. and Doug W.

    June 23rd - Ready for departure- Anchorage, AK - In front of "Earth Bed & Breakfast" where we gathered and spent first night. From right: John DM (Rochester, NY), John W. and Tim O. (both from London, England). Four of us - mountain skiers and we are waiting our two guides: Durny D. and Doug W.

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so impressive... Mixed with clouds on the horizon!

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so impressive... Mixed with clouds on the horizon!

  • At Talkeetna airport (50 ft). For our guide, Dyrny, it is going to be the 18th Denali summit attempt; for co-guide, Doug, the 4th. Doug is next to trailer with black T-shirt. From left: Tim, John W, Doug, and John DM.

    At Talkeetna airport (50 ft). For our guide, Dyrny, it is going to be the 18th Denali summit attempt; for co-guide, Doug, the 4th. Doug is next to trailer with black T-shirt. From left: Tim, John W, Doug, and John DM.

  • Airplanes with special snow gear.

    Airplanes with special snow gear.

  • With John W - waiting at "Security Check Point"...

    With John W - waiting at "Security Check Point"...

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so close... ...from airplane.

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so close... ...from airplane.

  • Below is our "airport": Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. Our Base Camp (BC) is in shadow in the middle of the picture.

    Below is our "airport": Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. Our Base Camp (BC) is in shadow in the middle of the picture.

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - almost the whole our route is visible.

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - almost the whole our route is visible.

  • The valley where we are going to "lend" - Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. BC is in closer shadow area - we landed close to it. Three weeks later our departure was from the area above upper shadow area.

    The valley where we are going to "lend" - Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. BC is in closer shadow area - we landed close to it. Three weeks later our departure was from the area above upper shadow area.

  • Snow and glaciers are everywhere... Kahiltna glacier, one of five big Denali's glaciers.

    Snow and glaciers are everywhere... Kahiltna glacier, one of five big Denali's glaciers.

  • Our load was 828 pounds [~376kg]. At BC we added 8 gallons of fuel or 64 pounds [~30kg] and 50 lb of food [~23kg]. So, total of 942 lb [428kg] for 6 of us, meaning: 157 lb [~71kg] per person!?! Scary... From left: me, John DM, Durny, and Doug.

    Our load was 828 pounds [~376kg]. At BC we added 8 gallons of fuel or 64 pounds [~30kg] and 50 lb of food [~23kg]. So, total of 942 lb [428kg] for 6 of us, meaning: 157 lb [~71kg] per person!?! Scary... From left: me, John DM, Durny, and Doug.

  • When the weather is good, TAT (Talkeetna Air Taxi) is very busy.

    When the weather is good, TAT (Talkeetna Air Taxi) is very busy.

  • We had excellent food... Our first breakfast: Eggs and Cheese. (Durny)

    We had excellent food... Our first breakfast: Eggs and Cheese. (Durny)

  • ...cheeseburgers... (Doug)

    ...cheeseburgers... (Doug)

  • ...pizzas.... But, at the end, I figured out that I lost 12 pounds (5.5 kg)!? [John W and Tim lost 10 pounds; John DM lost 5 pounds]

    ...pizzas.... But, at the end, I figured out that I lost 12 pounds (5.5 kg)!? [John W and Tim lost 10 pounds; John DM lost 5 pounds]

  • BC - waiting for "night" and colder temperature...

    BC - waiting for "night" and colder temperature...

  • What happened with "night" - it is almost midnight?!?

    What happened with "night" - it is almost midnight?!?

  • Base Camp (BC) at 7,200ft (2.195m) after the "midnight".

    Base Camp (BC) at 7,200ft (2.195m) after the "midnight".

  • It is 3 AM - frozen glacier - It is our time - GAME ON !!! June 25th - 1am (Day #3). From left: Durny, John DM, Doug, John W, and me.

    It is 3 AM - frozen glacier - It is our time - GAME ON !!! June 25th - 1am (Day #3). From left: Durny, John DM, Doug, John W, and me.

  • We need time to accomodate to slades ...

    We need time to accomodate to slades ...

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - approaching Camp 1 (C1).

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - approaching Camp 1 (C1).

  • The first - well deserved rest... From left: me, Durny, and Doug.

    The first - well deserved rest... From left: me, Durny, and Doug.

  • We left ~50 pounds load and ate ~10 pounds: Total remaining load: 882 pounds (147 per person). Assuming 12 pounds in skis: 135 pounds per person to carry. [Over 61 kg to carry] - This is why we lost so much of our weight - Approx: 60 pounds in backpack and 75 pounds in sled. [27kg - backpack; 34kg in sled] From left: John DM, John W, and Doug.

    We left ~50 pounds load and ate ~10 pounds: Total remaining load: 882 pounds (147 per person). Assuming 12 pounds in skis: 135 pounds per person to carry. [Over 61 kg to carry] - This is why we lost so much of our weight - Approx: 60 pounds in backpack and 75 pounds in sled. [27kg - backpack; 34kg in sled] From left: John DM, John W, and Doug.

  • Crevasses are everywhere... From left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

    Crevasses are everywhere... From left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

  • In 5 hrs, by 6am, through Kahiltna Glacier we have been in Camp 1 (C1) at 7,800 ft (2.377m). The rain started!!! June 26th at 5am (Day # 4) we continued with ~80 pounds (36kg) in backpack and sled to the "cash-in" spot at about 9,780ft (2.981m). We were there in ~ 4.5 hrs, dug a hole ~3ft (1m) deep and left our gear/load. ...After rain, snow started...

    In 5 hrs, by 6am, through Kahiltna Glacier we have been in Camp 1 (C1) at 7,800 ft (2.377m). The rain started!!! June 26th at 5am (Day # 4) we continued with ~80 pounds (36kg) in backpack and sled to the "cash-in" spot at about 9,780ft (2.981m). We were there in ~ 4.5 hrs, dug a hole ~3ft (1m) deep and left our gear/load. ...After rain, snow started...

  • Whiteout conditions - rain turned into snow just as we reached the cash-in spot. From left: Tim, Durny, Doug, and John DM.

    Whiteout conditions - rain turned into snow just as we reached the cash-in spot. From left: Tim, Durny, Doug, and John DM.

  • Skied back down to C1 (7,800 ft = 2.377m) empty in ~1/2 hr. Sky clearing in the afternoon. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny, and Doug.

    Skied back down to C1 (7,800 ft = 2.377m) empty in ~1/2 hr. Sky clearing in the afternoon. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny, and Doug.

  • Obviously, snowfalls in this region are usually huge.

    Obviously, snowfalls in this region are usually huge.

  • With John DM - Two oldest guys...

    With John DM - Two oldest guys...

  • Again, our game starts at "night" - waiting on colder temperature...

    Again, our game starts at "night" - waiting on colder temperature...

  • June 27th at 5:45am (Day #5) we moved to the next: Camp 2 (C2) at 11,200ft (3.414m). Whiteout conditions - snowing. Motorcycle Hill in the back. Sky clearing in the late afternoon.

    June 27th at 5:45am (Day #5) we moved to the next: Camp 2 (C2) at 11,200ft (3.414m). Whiteout conditions - snowing. Motorcycle Hill in the back. Sky clearing in the late afternoon.

  • June 28th (Day #6). - Beautiful morning at C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m).

    June 28th (Day #6). - Beautiful morning at C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m).

  • Snow and wind consequences from the last "night" ...

    Snow and wind consequences from the last "night" ...

  • Enjoyable skiing down to "cash in" site with empty backpacks...

    Enjoyable skiing down to "cash in" site with empty backpacks...

  • We went back to pick up our cash-in load. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny (in the hole), Doug, and John W.

    We went back to pick up our cash-in load. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny (in the hole), Doug, and John W.

  • John W ... the youngest group member.

    John W ... the youngest group member.

  • Tim is ready for Motorcycle Hill ...

    Tim is ready for Motorcycle Hill ...

  • June 29th (Day #7) - carry-on towards C3. Durny with sled on Motorcycle Hill.

    June 29th (Day #7) - carry-on towards C3. Durny with sled on Motorcycle Hill.

  • Tim is close to the top of Motorcycle Hill. Below is C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m). Below are from left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

    Tim is close to the top of Motorcycle Hill. Below is C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m). Below are from left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

  • From left: John DM and John W are coming. Almost all the climbing time on one rope (blue) were Durney, me , and Tim; and on the other rope (yellow) Doug, John DM, and John W - in this order.

    From left: John DM and John W are coming. Almost all the climbing time on one rope (blue) were Durney, me , and Tim; and on the other rope (yellow) Doug, John DM, and John W - in this order.

  • From right: Tim, John DM, and John W. We had heavy backpacks: ~75 pounds (~34kg). It is time for skis ...

    From right: Tim, John DM, and John W. We had heavy backpacks: ~75 pounds (~34kg). It is time for skis ...

  • With Durny at Motorcycle Hill.

    With Durny at Motorcycle Hill.

  • Squirrel Point is in front of us ...

    Squirrel Point is in front of us ...

  • Windy Pass is on horizon ... behind is Windy Corner ...

    Windy Pass is on horizon ... behind is Windy Corner ...

  • Approaching Windy Pass.

    Approaching Windy Pass.

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    ...cheeseburgers... (Doug)
    ...pizzas.... But, at the end, I figured out that I lost 12 pounds (5.5 kg)!? [John W and Tim lost 10 pounds; John DM lost 5 pounds]
    BC - waiting for "night" and colder temperature...