2. NABMA

Denali 2011

Denali (aka Mt McKinley) is the highest point of North America at 6.194 meters or 20,320 ft.
This was the first ascent by a Bosnian on Skies. We sumitted on 7777: July 7th, 2011 at 7:07pm.
Denali is located inside the North polar circle (60 degrees) with latitude of 63 dg north, meaning: has extreme climate conditions.
This ascent is very physically demanding.
But everything was done in just "one day" - 3 weeks long...
Since I left Phoenix, AZ on June 21st, i haven't seen night until came back on July 12th.
It was all one long...looong day!
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  • June 22nd - Anchorage, AK - Earth B&B - Checking our equipment... From left: John W, Durny (sitting), and Tim.

    June 22nd - Anchorage, AK - Earth B&B - Checking our equipment... From left: John W, Durny (sitting), and Tim.

  • June 23rd - Ready for departure- Anchorage, AK - In front of "Earth Bed & Breakfast" where we gathered and spent first night. From right: John DM (Rochester, NY), John W. and Tim O. (both from London, England). Four of us - mountain skiers and we are waiting our two guides: Durny D. and Doug W.

    June 23rd - Ready for departure- Anchorage, AK - In front of "Earth Bed & Breakfast" where we gathered and spent first night. From right: John DM (Rochester, NY), John W. and Tim O. (both from London, England). Four of us - mountain skiers and we are waiting our two guides: Durny D. and Doug W.

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so impressive... Mixed with clouds on the horizon!

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so impressive... Mixed with clouds on the horizon!

  • At Talkeetna airport (50 ft). For our guide, Dyrny, it is going to be the 18th Denali summit attempt; for co-guide, Doug, the 4th. Doug is next to trailer with black T-shirt. From left: Tim, John W, Doug, and John DM.

    At Talkeetna airport (50 ft). For our guide, Dyrny, it is going to be the 18th Denali summit attempt; for co-guide, Doug, the 4th. Doug is next to trailer with black T-shirt. From left: Tim, John W, Doug, and John DM.

  • Airplanes with special snow gear.

    Airplanes with special snow gear.

  • With John W - waiting at "Security Check Point"...

    With John W - waiting at "Security Check Point"...

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so close... ...from airplane.

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) is so close... ...from airplane.

  • Below is our "airport": Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. Our Base Camp (BC) is in shadow in the middle of the picture.

    Below is our "airport": Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. Our Base Camp (BC) is in shadow in the middle of the picture.

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - almost the whole our route is visible.

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - almost the whole our route is visible.

  • The valley where we are going to "lend" - Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. BC is in closer shadow area - we landed close to it. Three weeks later our departure was from the area above upper shadow area.

    The valley where we are going to "lend" - Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. BC is in closer shadow area - we landed close to it. Three weeks later our departure was from the area above upper shadow area.

  • Snow and glaciers are everywhere... Kahiltna glacier, one of five big Denali's glaciers.

    Snow and glaciers are everywhere... Kahiltna glacier, one of five big Denali's glaciers.

  • Our load was 828 pounds [~376kg]. At BC we added 8 gallons of fuel or 64 pounds [~30kg] and 50 lb of food [~23kg]. So, total of 942 lb [428kg] for 6 of us, meaning: 157 lb [~71kg] per person!?! Scary... From left: me, John DM, Durny, and Doug.

    Our load was 828 pounds [~376kg]. At BC we added 8 gallons of fuel or 64 pounds [~30kg] and 50 lb of food [~23kg]. So, total of 942 lb [428kg] for 6 of us, meaning: 157 lb [~71kg] per person!?! Scary... From left: me, John DM, Durny, and Doug.

  • When the weather is good, TAT (Talkeetna Air Taxi) is very busy.

    When the weather is good, TAT (Talkeetna Air Taxi) is very busy.

  • We had excellent food... Our first breakfast: Eggs and Cheese. (Durny)

    We had excellent food... Our first breakfast: Eggs and Cheese. (Durny)

  • ...cheeseburgers... (Doug)

    ...cheeseburgers... (Doug)

  • ...pizzas.... But, at the end, I figured out that I lost 12 pounds (5.5 kg)!? [John W and Tim lost 10 pounds; John DM lost 5 pounds]

    ...pizzas.... But, at the end, I figured out that I lost 12 pounds (5.5 kg)!? [John W and Tim lost 10 pounds; John DM lost 5 pounds]

  • BC - waiting for "night" and colder temperature...

    BC - waiting for "night" and colder temperature...

  • What happened with "night" - it is almost midnight?!?

    What happened with "night" - it is almost midnight?!?

  • Base Camp (BC) at 7,200ft (2.195m) after the "midnight".

    Base Camp (BC) at 7,200ft (2.195m) after the "midnight".

  • It is 3 AM - frozen glacier - It is our time - GAME ON !!! June 25th - 1am (Day #3). From left: Durny, John DM, Doug, John W, and me.

    It is 3 AM - frozen glacier - It is our time - GAME ON !!! June 25th - 1am (Day #3). From left: Durny, John DM, Doug, John W, and me.

  • We need time to accomodate to slades ...

    We need time to accomodate to slades ...

  • Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - approaching Camp 1 (C1).

    Denali (6.194m = 20,320ft) - approaching Camp 1 (C1).

  • The first - well deserved rest... From left: me, Durny, and Doug.

    The first - well deserved rest... From left: me, Durny, and Doug.

  • We left ~50 pounds load and ate ~10 pounds: Total remaining load: 882 pounds (147 per person). Assuming 12 pounds in skis: 135 pounds per person to carry. [Over 61 kg to carry] - This is why we lost so much of our weight - Approx: 60 pounds in backpack and 75 pounds in sled. [27kg - backpack; 34kg in sled] From left: John DM, John W, and Doug.

    We left ~50 pounds load and ate ~10 pounds: Total remaining load: 882 pounds (147 per person). Assuming 12 pounds in skis: 135 pounds per person to carry. [Over 61 kg to carry] - This is why we lost so much of our weight - Approx: 60 pounds in backpack and 75 pounds in sled. [27kg - backpack; 34kg in sled] From left: John DM, John W, and Doug.

  • Crevasses are everywhere... From left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

    Crevasses are everywhere... From left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

  • In 5 hrs, by 6am, through Kahiltna Glacier we have been in Camp 1 (C1) at 7,800 ft (2.377m). The rain started!!! June 26th at 5am (Day # 4) we continued with ~80 pounds (36kg) in backpack and sled to the "cash-in" spot at about 9,780ft (2.981m). We were there in ~ 4.5 hrs, dug a hole ~3ft (1m) deep and left our gear/load. ...After rain, snow started...

    In 5 hrs, by 6am, through Kahiltna Glacier we have been in Camp 1 (C1) at 7,800 ft (2.377m). The rain started!!! June 26th at 5am (Day # 4) we continued with ~80 pounds (36kg) in backpack and sled to the "cash-in" spot at about 9,780ft (2.981m). We were there in ~ 4.5 hrs, dug a hole ~3ft (1m) deep and left our gear/load. ...After rain, snow started...

  • Whiteout conditions - rain turned into snow just as we reached the cash-in spot. From left: Tim, Durny, Doug, and John DM.

    Whiteout conditions - rain turned into snow just as we reached the cash-in spot. From left: Tim, Durny, Doug, and John DM.

  • Skied back down to C1 (7,800 ft = 2.377m) empty in ~1/2 hr. Sky clearing in the afternoon. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny, and Doug.

    Skied back down to C1 (7,800 ft = 2.377m) empty in ~1/2 hr. Sky clearing in the afternoon. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny, and Doug.

  • Obviously, snowfalls in this region are usually huge.

    Obviously, snowfalls in this region are usually huge.

  • With John DM - Two oldest guys...

    With John DM - Two oldest guys...

  • Again, our game starts at "night" - waiting on colder temperature...

    Again, our game starts at "night" - waiting on colder temperature...

  • June 27th at 5:45am (Day #5) we moved to the next: Camp 2 (C2) at 11,200ft (3.414m). Whiteout conditions - snowing. Motorcycle Hill in the back. Sky clearing in the late afternoon.

    June 27th at 5:45am (Day #5) we moved to the next: Camp 2 (C2) at 11,200ft (3.414m). Whiteout conditions - snowing. Motorcycle Hill in the back. Sky clearing in the late afternoon.

  • June 28th (Day #6). - Beautiful morning at C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m).

    June 28th (Day #6). - Beautiful morning at C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m).

  • Snow and wind consequences from the last "night" ...

    Snow and wind consequences from the last "night" ...

  • Enjoyable skiing down to "cash in" site with empty backpacks...

    Enjoyable skiing down to "cash in" site with empty backpacks...

  • We went back to pick up our cash-in load. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny (in the hole), Doug, and John W.

    We went back to pick up our cash-in load. From left: John DM, Tim, Durny (in the hole), Doug, and John W.

  • John W ... the youngest group member.

    John W ... the youngest group member.

  • Tim is ready for Motorcycle Hill ...

    Tim is ready for Motorcycle Hill ...

  • June 29th (Day #7) - carry-on towards C3. Durny with sled on Motorcycle Hill.

    June 29th (Day #7) - carry-on towards C3. Durny with sled on Motorcycle Hill.

  • Tim is close to the top of Motorcycle Hill. Below is C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m). Below are from left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

    Tim is close to the top of Motorcycle Hill. Below is C2 (11,200ft = 3.414m). Below are from left: Doug, John W, and John DM.

  • From left: John DM and John W are coming. Almost all the climbing time on one rope (blue) were Durney, me , and Tim; and on the other rope (yellow) Doug, John DM, and John W - in this order.

    From left: John DM and John W are coming. Almost all the climbing time on one rope (blue) were Durney, me , and Tim; and on the other rope (yellow) Doug, John DM, and John W - in this order.

  • From right: Tim, John DM, and John W. We had heavy backpacks: ~75 pounds (~34kg). It is time for skis ...

    From right: Tim, John DM, and John W. We had heavy backpacks: ~75 pounds (~34kg). It is time for skis ...

  • With Durny at Motorcycle Hill.

    With Durny at Motorcycle Hill.

  • Squirrel Point is in front of us ...

    Squirrel Point is in front of us ...

  • Windy Pass is on horizon ... behind is Windy Corner ...

    Windy Pass is on horizon ... behind is Windy Corner ...

  • Approaching Windy Pass.

    Approaching Windy Pass.

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    The valley where we are going to "lend" - Kahiltna glacier Southeast fork. BC is in closer shadow area - we landed close to it. Three weeks later our departure was from the area above upper shadow area.
    Snow and glaciers are everywhere... Kahiltna glacier, one of five big Denali's glaciers.
    Our load was 828 pounds [~376kg]. At BC we added 8 gallons of fuel or 64 pounds [~30kg] and 50 lb of food [~23kg]. So, total of 942 lb [428kg] for 6 of us, meaning: 157 lb [~71kg] per person!?! Scary... From left: me, John DM, Durny, and Doug.