Ama Dablam 2007
Ama Dablam (22, 493 feet / 6856 meters) is one of the most spectacular mountains in the world and a true alpinist’s dream. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views.
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![Solu Khumbu Valley, Nepal<br />
Is my dream of summiting a big Himalayan peak dead? <br />
Years of building a climbing resume, months of training and preparation, all for this – bad weather on Cho Oyu and prematurely terminated attempt? <br />
My big frustration can be healed only by summiting something impressive.<br />
Ama Dablam – “Mother’s necklace” is perfect choice for this.<br />
<br />
AMA DABLAM REPORT<br />
<br />
October 8, 2007:<br />
Flight to Lukla [1] (9,315 ft / 2.840 m) – Khumbu Valley [2]<br />
Meet Climbing Sherpa Kami (Great Escapes Trekking) at Kathmandu Airport [3].<br />
5 hours trekking to Monjo (9,315 ft / 2.840 m). <br />
Cloudy weather. Spend night at Lodge. <br />
<br />
October 9:<br />
2 hours trekking to Namche Bazar [4] (11,286 ft / 3.440 m). Lunch at Panorama Lodge. <br />
3 hours trekking to Tengboche [5] (12,664 ft / 3.860 m). Visit monastery [6]. <br />
Rainy day. Spend night at Lodge.<br />
<br />
October 10:<br />
1 hour trekking to Pangboche [7] (12,894 ft / 3.930 m). <br />
Visit monastery. Get blessing from Ngawang Tenzing Jangpo - the most revered monk in Khumbu, Nepal [2]. <br />
Cho Oyu BC equipment arrives to the Ang Pasang’s (Climbing Sherpa Sirdar) house. Cloudy day. Spend night at Lodge.<br />
<br />
October 11:<br />
10 yaks loaded with equipment for Ama Dablam Base Camp (BC). <br />
2 hours trekking to Ama Dablam BC (15,256 ft / 4.650 m). <br />
Set kitchen tent and 2 small tents. <br />
Cloudy weather. At BC are Ang Pasang, Kami, Cook, Kitchen helper and me.<br />
<br />
October 12:<br />
Sunny morning. <br />
Puja ceremony [8]. Set dining tent. <br />
Fair weather. IMG [9] Ama Dablam expedition is coming on October 23.<br />
<br />
October 13:<br />
Hike to Advance Base Camp (ABC) (16,732 ft / 5.100 m). <br />
Kami and Ang Pasang set Camp 1 (C1) (17,717 ft / 5.400 m). <br />
Fair weather. All of us are back to BC for overnight. Rain and snow all night.<br />
<br />
October 14:<br />
Kami and Ang Pasang are working on fixing the ropes between Camp 2 (C2) and Camp 3 (C3). Fair weather.<br />
<br />
October 15:<br />
5 hours climb to C1 with heavy backpack. <br />
Kami and Ang Pasang are back to C1 just before snow storm.<br />
<br />
October 16:<br />
3.5 hours climb (Yellow Tower: 5.9) to C2 (18,865 ft / 5.750 m). <br />
Camp site is full. Sherpas build additional site for our tent. <br />
Fierce thunderstorm with lightning.<br />
<br />
October 17:<br />
3.5 hours (start at 5am) climb (Grey Tower: 70 degrees and Mushroom Ridge) to C3 (20,440 ft / 6.230 m). We fix about 200 meters (656 ft) of ropes above C3 just before another thunderstorm (this time without lightning).<br />
Back to BC by 7pm.<br />
Kami and Ang Pasang are coughing – two days rest needed.<br />
<br />
October 20:<br />
4 hours climbing to C1. Lunch at C1.<br />
2.5 hours climbing to C2. Light snow. Overnight.<br />
<br />
October 21:<br />
3 hours climb (start at 4am) to C3 and additional 3 hours to the summit: 10am.<br />
Sunny, windy, cold weather.<br />
Back to BC by 7pm.<br />
<br />
October 22:<br />
Beautiful sunny day.<br />
5.5 hours trek to Namche Bazar [4] (11,286 ft / 3.440 m). Lunch at Panorama Lodge. <br />
4 hours trek to Lukla [1] (9,315 ft / 2.840 m). <br />
Spend night at Paradise Lodge.<br />
<br />
October 23:<br />
All day spend at airport. <br />
Flights terminate around 11am due to cloudy weather.<br />
Spend night at Sherpa Lodge.<br />
<br />
October 24:<br />
Nice, sunny day. <br />
Early flight [10] to Kathmandu. Visit bookstore for Ama Dablam posters.<br />
Catch the flight for Bangkok and LA.<br />
<br />
October 25:<br />
Spend night at LA.<br />
<br />
October 26:<br />
Finally, after 66 days – back home!<br />
<br />
<br />
Again, I learned that big mountains teach patience, humility, and willingness to surrender expectations and consider other options.](https://photos.smugmug.com/NABMA/Ama-Dablam-2007/i-XsB94CL/0/1a26240f/Ti/G01-Himalaja-Karta-Ti.jpg)
