Ama Dablam 2007

Solu Khumbu Valley, Nepal
Is my dream of summiting a big Himalayan peak dead?
Years of building a climbing resume, months of training and preparation, all for this – bad weather on Cho Oyu and prematurely terminated attempt?
My big frustration can be healed only by summiting something impressive.
Ama Dablam – “Mother’s necklace” is perfect choice for this.

AMA DABLAM REPORT

October 8, 2007:
Flight to Lukla [1] (9,315 ft / 2.840 m) – Khumbu Valley [2]
Meet Climbing Sherpa Kami (Great Escapes Trekking) at Kathmandu Airport [3].
5 hours trekking to Monjo (9,315 ft / 2.840 m).
Cloudy weather. Spend night at Lodge.

October 9:
2 hours trekking to Namche Bazar [4] (11,286 ft / 3.440 m). Lunch at Panorama Lodge.
3 hours trekking to Tengboche [5] (12,664 ft / 3.860 m). Visit monastery [6].
Rainy day. Spend night at Lodge.

October 10:
1 hour trekking to Pangboche [7] (12,894 ft / 3.930 m).
Visit monastery. Get blessing from Ngawang Tenzing Jangpo - the most revered monk in Khumbu, Nepal [2].
Cho Oyu BC equipment arrives to the Ang Pasang’s (Climbing Sherpa Sirdar) house. Cloudy day. Spend night at Lodge.

October 11:
10 yaks loaded with equipment for Ama Dablam Base Camp (BC).
2 hours trekking to Ama Dablam BC (15,256 ft / 4.650 m).
Set kitchen tent and 2 small tents.
Cloudy weather. At BC are Ang Pasang, Kami, Cook, Kitchen helper and me.

October 12:
Sunny morning.
Puja ceremony [8]. Set dining tent.
Fair weather. IMG [9] Ama Dablam expedition is coming on October 23.

October 13:
Hike to Advance Base Camp (ABC) (16,732 ft / 5.100 m).
Kami and Ang Pasang set Camp 1 (C1) (17,717 ft / 5.400 m).
Fair weather. All of us are back to BC for overnight. Rain and snow all night.

October 14:
Kami and Ang Pasang are working on fixing the ropes between Camp 2 (C2) and Camp 3 (C3). Fair weather.

October 15:
5 hours climb to C1 with heavy backpack.
Kami and Ang Pasang are back to C1 just before snow storm.

October 16:
3.5 hours climb (Yellow Tower: 5.9) to C2 (18,865 ft / 5.750 m).
Camp site is full. Sherpas build additional site for our tent.
Fierce thunderstorm with lightning.

October 17:
3.5 hours (start at 5am) climb (Grey Tower: 70 degrees and Mushroom Ridge) to C3 (20,440 ft / 6.230 m). We fix about 200 meters (656 ft) of ropes above C3 just before another thunderstorm (this time without lightning).
Back to BC by 7pm.
Kami and Ang Pasang are coughing – two days rest needed.

October 20:
4 hours climbing to C1. Lunch at C1.
2.5 hours climbing to C2. Light snow. Overnight.

October 21:
3 hours climb (start at 4am) to C3 and additional 3 hours to the summit: 10am.
Sunny, windy, cold weather.
Back to BC by 7pm.

October 22:
Beautiful sunny day.
5.5 hours trek to Namche Bazar [4] (11,286 ft / 3.440 m). Lunch at Panorama Lodge.
4 hours trek to Lukla [1] (9,315 ft / 2.840 m).
Spend night at Paradise Lodge.

October 23:
All day spend at airport.
Flights terminate around 11am due to cloudy weather.
Spend night at Sherpa Lodge.

October 24:
Nice, sunny day.
Early flight [10] to Kathmandu. Visit bookstore for Ama Dablam posters.
Catch the flight for Bangkok and LA.

October 25:
Spend night at LA.

October 26:
Finally, after 66 days – back home!


Again, I learned that big mountains teach patience, humility, and willingness to surrender expectations and consider other options.