2. NABMA

Aconcagua 2005

Aconcagua (6962 m) is the highest mountain in the Western hemisphere, located in western Argentina, near the Chilean border.
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Alpenglow on Aconcagua's West Face above Base Camp.
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Alpenglow on Aconcagua's West Face above Base Camp.

  • View from the plane during flight over the Andes. Aconcagua is visible far back on the horizon.
  • Our group consisted of: <br /> Zijah Kurtovic, Chicago, IL<br /> Naim Logic, Tempe, AZ<br /> Fikret Karacic, Vancouver, BC<br /> Jasmin Ajanovic, Portland, OR<br /> <br /> All of us are originally from Sarajevo, Bosnia and got our first knowledge about alpinism at the Sarajevo Alpine School.
  • Aconcagua (6962 m) is the highest mountain in the Western hemisphere, located in western Argentina, near the Chile border. There are about 3,500 climbers trying the summit each year. The 'Normal Route' is non-technical - a walk-up, following the Northwest Ridge. It is the altitude that poses the biggest problem. The sense that this is an “easy climb” causes people to die (70 until now) because they underestimate the task at hand. Multiple reasons (high altitude, expedition length, extreme temperatures, hard winds, etc) make this climb difficult. This huge, “monster” mountain needs to be respected. The first assent of Aconcagua was led by the English alpinist Edward Fitz Gerald, during the summer of 1897. After several tries, the Swiss Mathias Zurbriggen reached the summit alone the 14th of January, 1897. <br /> It is a non-technical route but strenuous and physically demanding. Those climbers interested in this expedition must be not only physically fit but also mentally strong.<br /> <br /> The closest city to Aconcagua is Mendoza (760m / 2,500ft) where we flew from Santiago de Chile. Also, you must go to Mendoza in person to get your climbing permit. This is why Mendoza is usually the starting point for Aconcagua expeditions.<br /> <br /> To save time, we used the “Aymara – Aconcagua Adventures” group to help organize our ascent (permits, transportation, mules for equipment up to base camp, tents and “toilet service”, …).<br /> We took the bus to Puente del Inca (2,275m / 8,890ft) where the entrance to the Aconcagua National Park is located. The approach to base camp was by a three-day hike up the Horcones Valley.
  • Horcones Valley – ACONCAGUA is waiting for us.
  • On our way to the Confluencia Camp.
  • At the Confluencia Camp.<br /> <br /> We spent two nights at the intermediate camp of Confluencia for acclimatization purposes. We performed a day-long hike to the impressive South Face Base Camp (Plaza Francia).
  • Approach to the Plaza Francia.
  • Jasmin approaching Plaza de Mulas – Base Camp.
  • Our group (left to right: Naim, Jasmin, Zijah, Fikret) with the Aconcagua South Face behind us.
  • Naim with the Aconcagua South Face behind.<br /> <br /> Then we continued to Plaza de Mulas – Base Camp.
  • Jasmin approaching Plaza de Mulas – Base Camp.
  • Plaza de Mulas – Base Camp.<br /> <br /> We spent the next four days at the Plaza de Mulas (4,370m / 14,000ft) for acclimatization and rest. The altitude, as well as the climate, can cause dehydration. On the mountain, therefore, it is necessary to drink large quantities of water daily. Jasmin reinjured his lower back and had to return to the valley by helicopter.
  • Alpenglow on Aconcagua's West Face above Base Camp.
  • Jasmin leaving Plaza de Mulas – Base Camp.
  • At the Canada – Camp 1 – acclimatization day hike.
  • At the Canada – Camp 1.<br /> <br /> On Friday December 23 we started our ascent to the Aconcagua summit. Camp 1 was Canada Camp (4,910m / 16,100ft).
  • At the Nido de Condores – Camp 2.<br /> <br /> The next day we moved to Nido de Condores (5,380m / 17,600ft) – Camp 2, a large flat area exposed to the hard wind. Some rocks shielded our tents from the strong winds. My old equipment (from the time of Sarajevo Winter Olympic Games) is still good enough. However, for the summit, I would need something more durable. The next day – Christmas day, we had a rest day at the Nido de Condores Camp.
  • At the Nido de Condores – Camp 2 in “Winter Olympics 1984 jacket”.
  • Zijah and Fikret at the Nido de Condores.
  • The next day we moved to Camp Cholera (5,950m / 19,520ft) – Camp 3, our last altitude camp
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